Calculator · Bike

Gear ratio table.

Chainring × sprocket · development · speed at cadence

Pick your chainring and sprocket. See the gear ratio you’re running, how far the wheel travels per pedal stroke, and how fast you’d roll at any cadence. The shaded table maps every gear within a few teeth either side, so you can see how each shift changes the maths.

Pick your gear

Set chainring and sprocket teeth, pick your wheel/tire (for development & speed), and a target cadence. Everything updates live.

Development m per pedal stroke
Speed at 90 rpm km/h mph
Gear ratio table, your gear is highlighted in coral. Darker grey cells are further from your gear in %.
Distance from selected gear: selected < 5% 5–10% 10–20% ≥ 20%

How to read the table

Same idea, three different views, the question changes, the picture stays.

01

Gear ratio

Just chainring ÷ sprocket. A 50×15 = 3.33. Bigger ratio = harder to push, more distance per stroke. Useful for comparing setups and understanding range.

02

Development (m)

Meters of road covered per pedal revolution. Multiplies gear ratio by your wheel circumference. Ground truth, this is what your bike actually does when you turn the cranks once.

03

Speed at cadence

Development × cadence, how fast you’d be rolling if you held that rpm. Bump cadence up: see how speed scales. Helpful for picking the right cassette for your event.

The cell shading is always relative to your selected gear, closer cells (less than 5% off) look the same; cells > 20% off go dark navy. The grid stays centered on your choice as you change inputs.

Coach note

Pick gearing for the worst-case scenario, not the average one.

The mistake we see most: athletes pick a cassette that suits their training rides, then get caught in trouble on race day. Three checks that prevent it:

  • Climb survival, can you spin the steepest section of your race at > 70 rpm without crawling? If not, you need a smaller bottom gear (bigger sprocket or smaller chainring).
  • Top-end usable range, on the fastest descent or tailwind, can you still pedal at > 80 rpm? Don’t leave watts on the table because you spun out.
  • Cross-chain avoidance, the gears you’ll actually use 90% of the time should sit in the middle of the cassette. Big-big and small-small are mechanically wasteful.

Cadence economy varies by athlete, most people are most efficient between 80–95 rpm. Test it in the lab: run pedal-economy passes at 70 / 80 / 90 / 100 rpm and you’ll see your sweet spot in oxygen cost. Pick gears that keep you in that band on your race’s realistic terrain.

Common setups, what they’re for

Five gearset archetypes, pick the one that matches your terrain and event.

Road race / crit

53/39 × 11–28

Old-school race compact. Top end for sprints (53×11 = 4.82), survivable bottom for short steep climbs. Best for flat/rolling road racing.

All-rounder road

50/34 × 11–32

The modern compact / wide-range cassette. Plenty of top end (50×11 = 4.55), real climbing gear (34×32 = 1.06). Default for most road riders.

Climbing / mountain

48/32 × 10–36 (or larger)

Sub-1.0 ratios for sustained 8%+ pitches. Common on gravel and climbing-focused road bikes; trades top-end for survivability.

Track / fixed

Single ratio (e.g. 48 × 15)

One gear ratio, picked for the velodrome and event. Outdoor fixed riders go lower (around 2.7–3.0); indoor track sprinters push 3.5+.

Want to know your actual cadence sweet spot?

Pedal-economy testing in the lab measures oxygen cost across cadences from 70–100 rpm at race power. We hand you a number; you pick the cassette that keeps you in your band on race terrain.

Spotted a bug or want a feature? Email info@yousuli.co.